Introduction
Alopecia, a common dermatological disorder characterised by partial or complete hair
loss, affects individuals of all ages and genders, significantly impacting their psychological,
emotional, and social well-being [1]. The condition manifests in various forms, including androgenetic alopecia (AGA),
alopecia areata (AA), telogen effluvium (TE), and scarring alopecia, each with distinct
aetiologies ranging from genetic predisposition and hormonal imbalances to autoimmune
dysfunctions and environmental stressors. Despite the availability of FDA-approved
treatments such as topical minoxidil and oral finasteride, the efficacy of these therapies
remains limited, often accompanied by adverse effects like scalp irritation, sexual
dysfunction, and poor patient adherence. This highlights the urgent need for safer,
more effective therapeutic alternatives [2], [3].
In recent years, natural compounds have attracted considerable attention in dermatological
research due to their diverse pharmacological properties and favourable safety profiles.
Carnosic acid, a diterpenoid polyphenol found in plant species of the Lamiaceae family,
primarily derived from Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) and Salvia officinalis (sage), has emerged as a promising therapeutic agent for the management of alopecia.
Carnosic acid is recognised for its potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-androgenic,
and neuroprotective properties, which collectively contribute to its potential in
modulating the pathophysiological mechanisms associated with hair loss. It has been
shown to exert protective effects on hair follicle cells, mitigate oxidative stress,
inhibit the release of pro-inflammatory mediators, and modulate androgen-related signalling
pathways implicated in follicular miniaturisation [4].
This comprehensive review aims to elucidate the therapeutic potential of carnosic
acid in alopecia management by exploring its pharmacological properties, mechanisms
of action, and clinical relevance.
Methodology
This review was conducted to comprehensively evaluate the therapeutic potential and
underlying mechanisms of carnosic acid in the management of alopecia. A systematic
literature search was carried out using multiple electronic databases including PubMed,
Scopus, ScienceDirect, and Google Scholar to retrieve relevant studies published up
to December 2024. The search strategy involved combinations of the following keywords:
“carnosic acid”, “alopecia”, “hair loss”, “Rosmarinus officinalis”, “Salvia officinalis”, “antioxidant”, “anti-inflammatory”, “anti-androgenic”, “hair follicle regeneration”,
and “neuroprotective effects”. Inclusion criteria encompassed peer-reviewed original
research articles, in vitro and in vivo studies, clinical trials, and comprehensive reviews that discussed the pharmacological
properties of carnosic acid in the context of hair growth and alopecia management.
Articles not published in English, abstracts without full-text
access, and studies lacking relevance to carnosic acid or alopecia were excluded.
Relevant information was extracted on the chemistry, pharmacokinetics, pharmacodynamics,
and biological activities of carnosic acid, particularly in relation to oxidative
stress, inflammation, androgen signalling, follicular regeneration, neuroprotection,
and microbial effects. Data were synthesised qualitatively to elucidate mechanistic
insights and therapeutic implications. Figures, tables, and mechanistic models were
developed based on findings from high-quality primary studies to enhance clarity and
comprehensiveness.
Carnosic Acid: Chemistry and Pharmacological Profile
Chemistry
Carnosic acid (CA) is a naturally occurring phenolic diterpene classified within the
abietane-type diterpenoid family. It is primarily found in R. officinalis (rosemary) and S. officinalis (sage), where it serves as a chief bioactive compound responsible for the antioxidant
and pharmacological properties of these plants [30], [31]. Structurally, carnosic acid is characterised by a catechol moiety ([Fig. 3]), which contributes to its potent radical-scavenging activity [31].
Fig. 3 Structure of carnosic acid.
The molecular formula of carnosic acid is C18H28O4, with a molecular weight of 332.43 g/mol. Its core structure consists of a tricyclic
diterpene backbone with hydroxyl (-OH) and carboxyl (-COOH) functional groups, which
influence its solubility, reactivity, and pharmacokinetic profile [30], [32]. The presence of hydroxyl groups at positions C11 and C12 enables carnosic acid to undergo redox cycling, contributing to its ability to neutralise
reactive oxygen species (ROS) [33]. The physicochemical properties of CA are summarised in [Table 2].
Table 2 Physicochemical properties of carnosic acid [30], [34], [35].
|
Property
|
Standard values
|
|
Drug Name
|
Carnosic acid
|
|
Chemical Name
|
5,6-dihydroxy-1,1-dimethyl-7-propan-2-yl-2,3,4,9,10,10a-hexahydrophenanthrene-4a-carboxylic
acid
|
|
Molecular Formula
|
C18H28O4
|
|
Molecular Weight
|
332.43 g/mol
|
|
Melting Point
|
190 °C–201 °C
|
|
Boiling Point
|
506.4 °C at 760 mmHg
|
|
Density
|
1.184 g/cm³
|
|
Appearance
|
Yellow
|
|
Log P
|
5.405
|
|
pKa
|
4.14
|
|
BCS Class
|
Class II
|
|
Solubility
|
Slightly soluble in chloroform and methanol
|
|
Half-life
|
Approximately 3.5 hours
|
|
Physical State
|
Solid
|
|
Absorption
|
Well absorbed in the bloodstream following oral administration
|
|
Distribution
|
Well distributed in the intestine, liver, and muscle tissues
|
|
Metabolism
|
Hepatic
|
|
Excretion
|
Urinary
|
CA is biosynthesised through the mevalonate (MVA) pathway, starting from geranylgeranyl
pyrophosphate (GGPP), a common precursor for diterpenoids. The oxidation and rearrangement
of diterpenoid intermediates lead to the formation of carnosic acid, which exists
in equilibrium with its oxidised derivative, carnosol [31], [32].
Pharmacological activities
Carnosic acid exhibits a wide spectrum of pharmacological activities, including potent
antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, neuroprotective, antidiabetic, antimicrobial,
and anti-obesity properties. These diverse therapeutic effects highlight its potential
as a promising agent for the prevention and treatment of various diseases [33]. The major pharmacological activities of carnosic acid are summarised in [Table 3].
Table 3 Pharmacological applications of carnosic acid and corresponding activities.
|
S. No.
|
Pharmacological activity
|
Mechanism
|
References
|
|
1
|
Skin protectant
|
Protects skin from UV-induced damage (burns, hyperpigmentation) by mitigating oxidative
stress and inflammation.
|
[36], [37], [38], [39]
|
|
2
|
Anticancer
|
Inhibits melanoma progression by reducing tumour number, size, and weight, while extending
latency periods; possibly through apoptosis induction and anti-proliferative effects.
|
[40], [41]
|
|
3
|
Antifungal
|
Inhibits growth of fungal species (e. g., Candida, Aspergillus, and Cryptococcus) by compromising cell membrane and cell wall integrity.
|
[42]
|
|
4
|
Anti-inflammatory
|
Reduces the secretion of allergic inflammatory mediators and nitric oxide production
in activated macrophages, thereby alleviating conditions such as atopic dermatitis.
|
[43], [44]
|
|
5
|
Anti-aging
|
Delays age pigment accumulation, reduces amyloid beta-induced paralysis, and upregulates
longevity-associated genes, contributing to cellular and organismal longevity.
|
[45]
|
|
6
|
Antipyretic
|
Enhances blood circulation which aids in reducing fever.
|
[46], [47]
|
|
7
|
Wound healing
|
Supports wound healing through anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, although
it may modulate cell proliferation and migration in a context-dependent manner.
|
[48], [49]
|
|
9
|
Anti-alopecia
|
Protects hair follicles from damage induced by androgens or environmental pollutants,
potentially mitigating hair loss.
|
[50], [51]
|
|
10
|
Antioxidant
|
Neutralises free radicals, prevents lipid peroxidation, and minimises the formation
of harmful byproducts (e.g., malondialdehyde) that contribute to cell damage and inflammation.
|
[52], [53]
|
|
11
|
Immunomodulatory
|
Inhibits activation of inflammatory signalling pathways (e. g., NF-κB) and downregulates pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α, IL-13), leading to reduced chronic inflammation.
|
[54], [55]
|
|
12
|
Antibacterial
|
Disrupts bacterial cell membranes, inhibits key enzymes, and interferes with DNA/protein
synthesis, leading to bacterial cell death or growth inhibition.
|
[56]
|
|
13
|
Analgesic
|
Reduces pain indirectly by decreasing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines
and mediators (e. g., TNF-α, IL-6, and prostaglandins) that contribute to nociceptive signalling.
|
[57], [58]
|
|
14
|
Neuroprotective
|
Protects neurons from oxidative stress and reactive oxygen species, potentially preventing
neuronal degeneration and related neurodegenerative conditions.
|
[59], [60]
|
|
15
|
Antilipidemic
|
Lowers total cholesterol, LDL-cholesterol, triglycerides, and fasting plasma glucose,
while raising HDL-cholesterol levels, contributing to improved lipid profiles.
|
[61], [62]
|
Role of Carnosic Acid in Alopecia Management
Carnosic acid, a polyphenolic compound primarily found in R. officinalis, has gained attention for its potential role in alopecia (hair loss) treatment ([Fig. 4]). Compared to commercially available formulations such as minoxidil and finasteride,
CA offers a multi-targeted, natural approach to alopecia management, exerting antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory, and anti-androgenic effects, along with hair follicle regenerative
potential. Unlike minoxidil and finasteride, CA acts on broader pathways including
NF-
κ
B, Nrf2, Wnt/β-catenin, and JAK/STAT, potentially addressing not only hormonal but
also oxidative and autoimmune triggers of hair loss. The role of CA in alopecia management
is discussed in detail below.
Fig. 4 Mechanistic overview of carnosic acidʼs therapeutic effects in alopecia.
Antioxidant properties
Oxidative stress, defined as an imbalance between reactive oxygen species (ROS) production
and antioxidant defence mechanisms, has been implicated as a critical factor in the
pathogenesis of androgenic alopecia (AGA) and other hair loss disorders [33]. CA, a potent natural antioxidant derived from R. officinalis, has demonstrated significant potential in mitigating oxidative stress-related hair
follicle damage and promoting hair regrowth [50].
CA acts as a radical scavenger due to the presence of its catechol moiety, which consists
of two O-phenolic hydroxyl groups at C11 and C12. Upon oxidation, CA undergoes an
electron transfer reaction, neutralising ROS and preventing lipid peroxidation within
cellular membranes [30]. A comparative analysis has shown that CA exhibits antioxidant activity superior
to that of vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and synthetic antioxidants such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), primarily
due to its efficient radical-quenching properties [63], [64].
Oxidative stress-induced damage to hair follicle stem cells (HFSCs) leads to premature
follicular miniaturisation, disrupted hair growth cycles, and eventual hair loss [65]. CA exerts protective effects on HFSCs by reducing oxidative burden, thereby preserving
follicular integrity. Studies have demonstrated that CA modulates mitochondrial function
by stabilising membrane potential and preventing excessive ROS accumulation, which
is crucial for maintaining active hair follicle cycling [66].
A study by Kesika et al. [67] investigated the effects of rosemary extract, rich in CA, on hair growth in a testosterone-induced
hair loss model. The study found that topical application of CA significantly increased
the expression of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and insulin-like growth
factor-1 (IGF-1), both of which are critical for hair follicle angiogenesis and cell
proliferation. This suggests that CA not only mitigates oxidative stress but also
enhances dermal papilla cell viability, thereby promoting hair regeneration [68].
Inflammation is a secondary yet significant contributor to hair follicle damage in
alopecia, often exacerbated by oxidative stress [69]. CA has been shown to inhibit the nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated
B cell (NF-κB) pathways, a key regulator of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as tumour necrosis
factor-alpha (TNF-α) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) [70], [71]. By downregulating inflammatory markers, CA helps create a more conducive microenvironment
for hair follicle regeneration. A recent study by Wan et al. [72] demonstrated that CA supplementation reduced inflammation-induced ROS levels in
animal models subjected to lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced oxidative stress. Since
LPS exposure mimics chronic inflammatory conditions, these findings further substantiate
CAʼs role in reducing inflammation-driven follicular degeneration in
alopecia.
Anti-inflammatory properties
Alopecia, particularly androgenic alopecia (AGA) and alopecia areata (AA), is often
associated with chronic inflammation and immune dysregulation in hair follicles. Inflammatory
cytokines, oxidative stress, and immune-mediated mechanisms contribute to the progressive
miniaturisation of hair follicles, disrupting the hair growth cycle and leading to
hair loss [73]. CA exerts its anti-inflammatory effects through multiple molecular pathways, primarily
by inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines and signalling cascades involved in hair
follicle inflammation. The nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated
B cell (NF-κB) signalling pathways is a major regulator of inflammation and immune response in
hair follicle cells. Dysregulated NF-κB activation is associated with increased production of pro-inflammatory cytokines
such as tumour necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), interleukin-1 beta (IL-1β), and interleukin-6
(IL-6), which contribute to follicular inflammation and apoptosis of dermal papilla
cells [74], [75], [76], [77].
Several studies have demonstrated that CA inhibits NF-κB activation, thereby reducing the expression of these cytokines. Guo et al. [78] reported that CA downregulated NF-κB and attenuated TNF-α and IL-6 levels in an inflammation-induced model, suggesting its potential in suppressing
inflammatory responses that drive hair follicle damage in alopecia.
Alopecia areata (AA) is an autoimmune condition characterised by T cell infiltration
and cytokine-mediated destruction of hair follicles. The Janus kinase/signal transducer
and activator of transcription (JAK/STAT) pathways plays a critical role in AA pathogenesis
by mediating the effects of interferon-gamma (IFN-γ) and other pro-inflammatory signals [79]. CA has been shown to modulate JAK/STAT signalling by inhibiting the phosphorylation
of STAT1 and STAT3, reducing the transcription of inflammatory mediators involved
in autoimmune responses [80]. This suggests that CA may be effective in preventing the T cell-driven hair follicle
destruction seen in AA.
Chronic inflammation in alopecia is often exacerbated by oxidative stress, which activates
inflammatory pathways, leading to hair follicle miniaturisation. CA acts as a potent
antioxidant by ROS, thereby reducing oxidative stress-induced inflammation in hair
follicle stem cells (HFSCs) [81].
Cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) is an enzyme responsible for the synthesis of pro-inflammatory
prostaglandins, particularly prostaglandin D2 (PGD2), which has been implicated in
AGA. Elevated PGD2 levels in the scalp inhibit hair follicle elongation and promote
miniaturisation, leading to hair thinning [82]. CA has been shown to inhibit COX-2 expression and PGD2 production, thereby reducing
inflammation-mediated hair loss. A study by Xue-Gang et al. [83] demonstrated that CA effectively downregulated COX-2 activity, suggesting a potential
mechanism through which it may counteract PGD2-induced hair follicle miniaturisation
in AGA. CD4+ T cells play a pivotal role in maintaining immune homeostasis and combating
inflammatory diseases. The differentiation and regulation of T-helper (Th) cell subsets,
including Th1, Th2, Th17, and T-regulatory (Treg) cells, are critical in autoimmune
conditions such as alopecia areata.
Dysregulation of these subsets, characterised by elevated levels of cytokines like
IL-2, IFN-γ, TNF (Th1), IL-5, IL-6, and IL-13 (Th2), is associated with follicular damage and
hair loss [84].
Anti-androgenic effects
Androgenic alopecia (AGA) is primarily driven by the hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT),
which induces miniaturisation of hair follicles. CA has demonstrated potential anti-androgenic
properties by inhibiting DHT synthesis or its action, thus mitigating the progression
of AGA.
The pathogenesis of AGA and AA involves NKG2D+ CD8+ T cells, which produce Th1 cytokine
interferon-γ (IFN-γ), leading to an imbalance in hair follicle immune privilege. This immune dysregulation
results in localised inflammation and apoptosis around hair follicles, ultimately
causing hair loss. Tempol (4-hydroxy-2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl), a non-toxic
synthetic antioxidant with high water solubility and low molecular weight, effectively
permeates biological membranes and mitigates oxidative stress, which is a contributing
factor to hair follicle damage [85], [86].
Natural extracts of Notoginseng radix, particularly Panax notoginseng saponins (PNS), have garnered attention for their pharmacological activities, including
promoting endothelial progenitor cell-mediated angiogenesis. Given that reduced follicular
vasculature is a hallmark of hair loss, enhanced angiogenesis supports cyclic hair
growth by meeting the increased nutritional demands of hair follicles during the anagen
phase [87]. PNS also activates the Wnt/β-catenin signalling pathway, a critical regulator of hair follicle transition from
the telogen to anagen phase [88], [89].
Hair follicle immune privilege is maintained through multiple mechanisms, including
the downregulation of MHC class I molecules in the lower hair follicle, secretion
of immunosuppressive factors such as TGF-β, IL-10, α-MSH, and MIF, and the expression of PD-L1 by perifollicular mast cells, which promotes
regulatory T cell differentiation and immune tolerance. The extracellular matrix composed
of mesenchymal cells also prevents immune cell infiltration, contributing to immune
privilege maintenance [90], [91]. Steroidal 5α-reductase type 2 (SRD5A2) is pivotal in the pathogenesis of AGA. This membrane-bound
enzyme, reliant on NADPH, catalyses the conversion of testosterone to DHT, which then
forms a complex with androgen receptors (AR) to act as a transcription factor, promoting
androgen-dependent hair follicle miniaturisation [92], [93].
The JAK/STAT signalling pathway is implicated in inflammatory and autoimmune conditions,
including alopecia areata. JAK inhibitors (JAKi) like tofacitinib (TFB) inhibit this
pathway, promoting hair regrowth and disease reversal. However, systemic administration
of JAKi can cause severe adverse effects, making topical application preferable for
non-life-threatening conditions such as alopecia [94], [95]. Metformin, through activation of the AMPK enzyme, modulates immune responses by
inhibiting the JAK/STAT and mTOR pathways, thereby preventing T lymphocyte proliferation
and differentiation into cytotoxic T cells, which are implicated in hair follicle
destruction in alopecia areata [96], [97], [98].
Hair follicle regeneration
Hair growth is driven by the vigorous proliferation of hair matrix keratinocytes and
their subsequent differentiation as they migrate towards the surface of the scalp.
Dermal papilla cells, specialised mesenchymal cells located beneath the hair matrix,
play a critical role in regulating hair follicle (HF) differentiation, proliferation,
and the hair growth cycle [99]. Recent studies have demonstrated that CA can enhance the activity of dermal papilla
cells, which are essential for hair follicle regeneration and recovery from hair loss.
This bioactive compound exhibits potential in stimulating hair growth by promoting
cellular proliferation and enhancing follicular regeneration processes [93].
Under normal physiological conditions, the hair growth cycle is characterised by minimal
immune cell presence around the anagen-phase HF bulb. However, in alopecia areata,
the anagen phase is prematurely terminated due to an intense perifollicular and intrafollicular
inflammatory infiltrate surrounding the HF bulb, histologically resembling a “swarm
of bees”. This inflammatory response induces premature transition into the catagen
phase, resulting in follicular dystrophy and apoptosis [100].
The presence of melatonergic receptors, particularly type 1 (MT1) and type 2 (MT2),
in mammalian skin has been extensively documented [101]. MT1 receptors are expressed in key epidermal structures including hair follicles,
fibroblasts, dermal papilla cells, and keratinocytes [102]. In contrast, MT2 receptors are predominantly localised in adnexal structures such
as cutaneous blood vessels, eccrine glands, and the inner root sheath of the HF [103]. Dong et al. [104] utilised bromodeoxyuridine and 3H-thymidine double-labelling techniques to identify
a population of stem cells within the follicular bulge region. These bulge stem cells,
in synergy with dermal papilla cells, are essential for the self-renewal and cyclic
regeneration of HFs. While typically quiescent, HF stem cells can be activated by
injury or growth stimuli, leading to rapid proliferation and
subsequent generation of transit-amplifying cells and postmitotic differentiating
cells that contribute to wound repair and HF reconstruction [105].
Neuroprotective and stress-modulating effects
Carnosic acid supports hair growth not only through direct action on hair follicles
but also by neuroprotective and stress-modulating mechanisms, by protecting neurons,
modulating stress pathways, and maintaining a healthy scalp environment [106]. CA activates the Nrf2 (nuclear factor erythroid 2–related factor 2) pathway, enhancing
the expression of cytoprotective and antioxidant enzymes such as HO-1, NQO1, and SOD,
which protect hair follicle cells from oxidative damage, an important factor in hair
follicle miniaturisation and alopecia [107]. It suppresses NF-κB signalling, reducing neuroinflammatory cytokines, which helps protect perifollicular
nerves and maintain a healthy microenvironment around hair follicles. Peripheral innervation
of hair follicles is crucial for cycling and regeneration. CAʼs neuroprotective actions
may preserve this innervation by reducing oxidative stress and inflammatory insults,
thus supporting normal hair cycling [108].
Chronic psychological or physiological stress elevates cortisol, which impairs hair
growth by pushing follicles into the telogen (resting) phase. CA indirectly modulates
the hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal (HPA) axis, attenuating stress responses and thereby
reducing cortisol levels or its local effects on dermal papilla cells [109], [110]. By reducing psychological stress, CA may prevent stress-induced hair loss, such
as telogen effluvium or alopecia areata. CA has been reported to prolong the anagen
(growth) phase of hair follicles, possibly by mitigating oxidative and emotional stress,
preserving peripheral nerve function, and ensuring a favourable follicular microenvironment
[111]. Via its vasodilatory and anti-inflammatory effects, CA may enhance scalp blood
flow, improving nutrient and oxygen supply to hair follicles [112].
Antimicrobial activity
Carnosic acid exhibits broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria, fungi,
and viruses, making it a promising candidate for alopecia management, particularly
in cases where microbial infections contribute to scalp conditions that exacerbate
hair loss [112]. Extensive studies have demonstrated the efficacy of CA in inhibiting the proliferation
of pathogenic bacteria, including Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, both of which are implicated in scalp inflammation and follicular damage [113]. CA exerts both bacteriostatic and bactericidal effects against Gram-positive bacteria
by disrupting bacterial membrane integrity and inhibiting biofilm formation. This
mechanism is particularly relevant in folliculitis-associated hair loss, where CAʼs
antibacterial properties may help prevent infection-induced follicular damage and
subsequent alopecia [114].
Scalp disorders such as seborrheic dermatitis and tinea capitis, which are commonly
associated with Malassezia species and Trichophyton fungi, respectively, contribute to significant hair shedding and follicular deterioration
[115]. CA effectively suppresses fungal growth and inhibits hyphal formation, thereby
reducing fungal colonisation on the scalp [116].