Facial Plast Surg 2009; 25(5): 329-336
DOI: 10.1055/s-0029-1243082
© Thieme Medical Publishers

Chemical Peels: What's New and What Isn't New but Still Works Well

Gabriella Fabbrocini1 , Maria Pia De Padova2 , Antonella Tosti3
  • 1Department of Systematic Pathology, Section of Dermatology, University of Naples Federico II, Naples, Italy
  • 2Nigrisoli Private Hospital, Bologna, Italy
  • 3Department of Dermatology, University of Bologna, Bologna, Italy
Further Information

Publication History

Publication Date:
18 December 2009 (online)

ABSTRACT

Chemical peeling is becoming increasingly popular for the treatment of skin rejuvenation where it can improve damaged skin and fine wrinkles. The basic procedure aims at obtaining a controlled chemical burn of the epidermis and/or dermis. This results in epidermal regeneration and postinflammatory collagen neoformation with remodeling of collagen and elastic fibers and deposition of glycosaminoglycans in the dermis. Various chemicals have been used as peeling agents, of which the most used are the α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, or β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid. The choice of the compound is linked to the different indications and to the depth of the desired peeling. Phenol is still the best agent for deep peeling but requires specific indications, prescription, and post-peeling care. Combination of different compounds is one innovation in the field of chemical peelings. Further controlled studies are necessary to set up specific guidelines.

REFERENCES

  • 1 Grover C, Reddu B S. The therapeutic value of glycolic acid peels in dermatology.  Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2003;  69 148-150
  • 2 Savant S S, Metho N. Superficial and medium depth chemical peeling. In: Savant SS, Shah RA, Gore D Text Book and Atlas of Dermatosurgery and Cosmetology. Association of Scientific Cosmetologists and Dermatosurgeons Mumbai; 1998: 136-144
  • 3 Baker T J, Stuzin J M, Baker T M. Facial Skin Resurfacing. St. Louis, MO; Quality Medical Publishing; 1998
  • 4 Baker T J, Gordon H L. The ablation of rhitides by chemical means. A preliminary report.  J Fla Med Assoc. 1961;  48 451-454
  • 5 Fulton J E, Porumb S. Chemical peels: their place within the range of resurfacing techniques.  Am J Clin Dermatol. 2004;  5 179-187
  • 6 Rubin M G. Manual of Chemical Peels. Philadelphia, PA; JB Lippincott 1992: 14
  • 7 Ditre C M, Griffin T D, Murphy G F et al.. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study.  J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996;  34(2 Pt 1) 187-195
  • 8 Brody H J, Hailey C W. Medium-depth peeling of the skin: a variation superficial chemosurgery.  J Dermatol Surg Oncol. 1986;  12 1268-1275
  • 9 Clark E, Scerri L. Superficial and medium-depth chemical peels.  Clin Dermatol. 2008;  26 209-218
  • 10 Ueda S, Mitsugi K, Ichige K et al.. New formulation of chemical peeling agent: 30% salicylic acid in polyethylene glycol. Absorption and distribution of 14C-salicylic acid in polyethylene glycol applied topically to skin of hairless mice.  J Dermatol Sci. 2002;  28 211-218
  • 11 Roberts H L. The trichloroacetic acids: a biochemical study.  Br J Dermatol. 1926;  38 323-391
  • 12 Cotellessa C, Manunta T, Ghersetich I, Brazzini B, Peris K. The use of pyruvic acid in the treatment of acne.  J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2004;  18 275-278
  • 13 Ghersetich I, Brazzini B, Peris K, Cotellessa C, Manunta T, Lotti T. Pyruvic acid peels for the treatment of photoaging.  Dermatol Surg. 2004;  30 32-36 discussion 36
  • 14 Ghersetich I, Brazzini B, Lotti T. Chemical peeling. In: Lotti TM, Katsambas AD European Handbook of Dermatological Treatments. New York, NY; Springer 599-712
  • 15 Ghersetich I, Brazzini B, Lotti T et al.. In: Tosti A, Grimes P, De Padova MP Color Atlas of Chemical Peels. Berlin, Heidelberg; Springer-Verlag 2006: 31-39
  • 16 Griffin T D, Van Scott E J. Use of pyruvic acid in the treatment of actinic keratoses: a clinical and histopathologic study.  Cutis. 1991;  47 325-329
  • 17 Monheit G D. The Jessner's-trichloroacetic acid peel. An enhanced medium-depth chemical peel.  Dermatol Clin. 1995;  13 277-283
  • 18 Roberts W E. Chemical peeling in ethnic/dark skin.  Dermatol Ther. 2004;  17 196-205
  • 19 Letessier S. Chemical peel with resorcin. In: Roenigk RK, Roenigk HH Dermatologic Surgery: Principles and Practice. New York, NY; Marcel Dekker 1989: 1017
  • 20 Karam P G. 50% resorcinol peel.  Int J Dermatol. 1993;  32 569-574
  • 21 Hetter G P. An examination of the phenol-croton oil peel: part I. Dissecting the formula.  Plast Reconstr Surg. 2000;  105 227-239 discussion 249-251
  • 22 Hilinski J, Revis Jr D R, Seagle M B. Skin Resurfacing–Chemical peels. Available at: http://emedicine.medscape.com/article/842768-overview Accessed Nov. 17, 2009
  • 23 Monheit G D. The Jessner's + TCA peel: a medium-depth chemical peel.  J Dermatol Surg Oncol. 1989;  15 945-950
  • 24 Coleman III W P, Futrell J M. The glycolic acid trichloroacetic acid peel.  J Dermatol Surg Oncol. 1994;  20 76-80
  • 25 Montagna W, Prota G, Kenney J A. Black Skin Structure and Function. San Diego, CA; Academic Press 1993: 42-45
  • 26 Szabó G, Gerald A B, Pathak M A, Fitzpatrick T B. Racial differences in the fate of melanosomes in human epidermis.  Nature. 1969;  222 1081-1082
  • 27 Olson R L, Gaylor J, Everett M A. Skin color, melanin, and erythema.  Arch Dermatol. 1973;  108 541-544
  • 28 Grimes P E, Davis L T. Cosmetics in blacks.  Dermatol Clin. 1991;  9 53-68
  • 29 Grimes P E, Hunt S G. Considerations for cosmetic surgery in the black population.  Clin Plast Surg. 1993;  20 27-34
  • 30 Grimes P E. The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups.  Dermatol Surg. 1999;  25 18-22
  • 31 Bryan C P. Ancient Egyptian Medicine; The Papyrus Ebers. Chicago, IL; Ares Publishers 1974
  • 32 Brody H. Chemical Peeling. St. Louis, MO; Mosby-Yearbook 1992
  • 33 Bagatin E, Hassun K, Talarico S. Systematic review of chemical peelings.  Surgical & Cosmetic Dermatology. 2009;  1 34-42

Antonella TostiM.D. 

Department of Dermatology, University of Bologna

via Massarenti 1, Bologna 40138, Italy

Email: antonella.tosti@unibo.it

    >