Facial Plast Surg 2017; 33(06): 653-660
DOI: 10.1055/s-0037-1607448
Original Article
Thieme Medical Publishers 333 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10001, USA.

Modern Approaches to Skin Care

Ashley Guthrie
1   Department of Otolaryngology, New York Eye and Ear Infirmary of Mount Sinai, New York, New York
,
Sameep Kadakia
1   Department of Otolaryngology, New York Eye and Ear Infirmary of Mount Sinai, New York, New York
,
Shirley Hu
1   Department of Otolaryngology, New York Eye and Ear Infirmary of Mount Sinai, New York, New York
,
Raja Sawhney
2   Department of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, University of Florida Health Science Center, Gainesville, Florida
,
Jennifer Schumacher
3   Center for Aesthetic Surgery Colleyville, Texas
,
Yadranko Ducic
4   Department of Facial Plastics, Otolaryngology and Facial Plastic Surgery Associates, Fort Worth, Texas
› Author Affiliations
Further Information

Publication History

Publication Date:
01 December 2017 (online)

Abstract

Recent years have seen an increased interest in minimally invasive and noninvasive cosmetic surgery and facial aesthetics. There has been a concomitant surge in the focus on skin care, which, by nature, is minimally invasive, and an exponential growth in the popularity and availability of minimally invasive dermatologic procedures and products. This review seeks to provide an overview of the most commonly employed skin care modalities, such as their mechanisms, indications for use, advantages and disadvantages, and side effects. The authors aim to provide the audience with a fundamental understanding of the options currently available to cosmetic surgeons and practitioners. Topics include retinoids, chemical peels, skin-lightening agents, lasers, microneedling, topical antioxidants, and injectables.

 
  • References

  • 1 Kligman AM, Grove GL, Hirose R, Leyden JJ. Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 1986; 15 (4, Pt 2): 836-859
  • 2 Draelos ZD. Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 2007; 20 (05) 308-313
  • 3 Gilchrest BA, Blog FB, Szabo G. Effects of aging and chronic sun exposure on melanocytes in human skin. J Invest Dermatol 1979; 73 (02) 141-143
  • 4 Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ. , et al. Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. J Invest Dermatol 1995; 105 (04) 549-556
  • 5 Duell EA, Kang S, Voorhees JJ. Unoccluded retinol penetrates human skin in vivo more effectively than unoccluded retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid. J Invest Dermatol 1997; 109 (03) 301-305
  • 6 Kimbrough-Green CK, Griffiths CE, Finkel LJ. , et al. Topical retinoic acid (tretinoin) for melasma in black patients. A vehicle-controlled clinical trial. Arch Dermatol 1994; 130 (06) 727-733
  • 7 Weinstein GD, Nigra TP, Pochi PE. , et al. Topical tretinoin for treatment of photodamaged skin. A multicenter study. Arch Dermatol 1991; 127 (05) 659-665
  • 8 Hussein MR, Ab-Deif EE, Abdel-Motaleb AA, Zedan H, Abdel-Meguid AM. Chemical peeling and microdermabrasion of the skin: comparative immunohistological and ultrastructural studies. J Dermatol Sci 2008; 52 (03) 205-209
  • 9 Fischer TC, Perosino E, Poli F, Viera MS, Dreno B. ; Cosmetic Dermatology European Expert Group. Chemical peels in aesthetic dermatology: an update 2009. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2010; 24 (03) 281-292
  • 10 Landau M. Chemical peels. Clin Dermatol 2008; 26 (02) 200-208
  • 11 Berson DS, Cohen JL, Rendon MI, Roberts WE, Starker I, Wang B. Clinical role and application of superficial chemical peels in today's practice. J Drugs Dermatol 2009; 8 (09) 803-811
  • 12 Meaike JD, Agrawal N, Chang D, Lee EI, Nigro MG. Noninvasive facial rejuvenation. Part 3: physician-directed-lasers, chemical peels, and other noninvasive modalities. Semin Plast Surg 2016; 30 (03) 143-150
  • 13 Friedman S, Lippitz J. Chemical peels, dermabrasion, and laser therapy. Dis Mon 2009; 55 (04) 223-235
  • 14 Lawrence N, Bligard CA, Reed R, Perret WJ. Exogenous ochronosis in the United States. J Am Acad Dermatol 1988; 18 (5, Pt 2): 1207-1211
  • 15 Nordlund JJ, Grimes PE, Ortonne JP. The safety of hydroquinone. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2006; 20 (07) 781-787
  • 16 Fleischer Jr AB, Schwartzel EH, Colby SI, Altman DJ. The combination of 2% 4-hydroxyanisole (mequinol) and 0.01% tretinoin is effective in improving the appearance of solar lentigines and related hyperpigmented lesions in two double-blind multicenter clinical studies. J Am Acad Dermatol 2000; 42 (03) 459-467
  • 17 Avram M, Ortiz A. Special issue in dermatology and plastic surgery of lasers in surgery and medicine. Lasers Surg Med 2015; 47 (02) 103-105
  • 18 Husain Z, Alster TS. The role of lasers and intense pulsed light technology in dermatology. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2016; 9: 29-40
  • 19 Preissig J, Hamilton K, Markus R. Current laser resurfacing technologies: a review that delves beneath the surface. Semin Plast Surg 2012; 26 (03) 109-116
  • 20 Cohen BE, Brauer JA, Geronemus RG. Acne scarring: a review of available therapeutic lasers. Lasers Surg Med 2016; 48 (02) 95-115
  • 21 Alexiades-Armenakas MR, Dover JS, Arndt KA. The spectrum of laser skin resurfacing: nonablative, fractional, and ablative laser resurfacing. J Am Acad Dermatol 2008; 58 (05) 719-737 ; quiz 738–740
  • 22 You HJ, Kim DW, Yoon ES, Park SH. Comparison of four different lasers for acne scars: resurfacing and fractional lasers. J Plast Reconstr Aesthet Surg 2016; 69 (04) e87-e95
  • 23 Ciocon DH, Doshi D, Goldberg DJ. Non-ablative lasers. Curr Probl Dermatol 2011; 42: 48-55
  • 24 Goldberg DJ. Current trends in intense pulsed light. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2012; 5 (06) 45-53
  • 25 El-Domyati M, Barakat M, Awad S, Medhat W, El-Fakahany H, Farag H. Multiple microneedling sessions for minimally invasive facial rejuvenation: an objective assessment. Int J Dermatol 2015; 54 (12) 1361-1369
  • 26 Schwarz M, Laaff H. A prospective controlled assessment of microneedling with the Dermaroller device. Plast Reconstr Surg 2011; 127 (06) 146e-148e
  • 27 El-Domyati M, Barakat M, Awad S, Medhat W, El-Fakahany H, Farag H. Microneedling therapy for atrophic acne scars: an objective evaluation. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2015; 8 (07) 36-42
  • 28 Alam M, Han S, Pongprutthipan M. , et al. Efficacy of a needling device for the treatment of acne scars: a randomized clinical trial. JAMA Dermatol 2014; 150 (08) 844-849
  • 29 Arora S, Gupta BP. Automated microneedling device – a new tool in dermatologist's kit. J Pak Med Assoc 2012; 22: 354-357
  • 30 Asif M, Kanodia S, Singh K. Combined autologous platelet-rich plasma with microneedling versus microneedling with distilled water in the treatment of atrophic acne scars: a concurrent split-face study. J Cosmet Dermatol 2016; 15 (04) 434-443
  • 31 Jones DH, Carruthers J, Joseph JH. , et al. REFINE-1, a multicenter, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, phase 3 trial with ATX-101, an injectable drug for submental fat reduction. Dermatol Surg 2016; 42 (01) 38-49
  • 32 Duncan D, Rotunda AM. Injectable therapies for localized fat loss: state of the art. Clin Plast Surg 2011; 38 (03) 489-501 , vii
  • 33 Shamban AT. Noninvasive submental fat compartment treatment. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open 2016; 4 (12, Suppl anatomy and safety in cosmetic medicine: cosmetic bootcamp) e1155
  • 34 Fagien S, McChesney P, Subramanian M, Jones DH. Prevention and management of injection-related adverse effects in facial aesthetics: considerations for ATX-101 (deoxycholic acid injection) treatment. Dermatol Surg 2016; 42 (Suppl. 01) S300-S304
  • 35 Dover J, Schlessinger J, Young L, Walker P. Reduction of submental fat with ATX-101: results from a phase IIB study using investigator, subject, and magnetic resonance imaging assessments (P4787). J Am Acad Dermatol 2012; 2: AB29
  • 36 American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Plastic Surgery Statistics Report. 2015 Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Statistics. 2015 . Available at: http://www.plasticsurgery.org/Documents/news-resources/statistics/2015-statistics/cosmetic-procedure-trends-2015.pdf . Accessed February 15, 2016
  • 37 Sundaram H, Signorini M, Liew S. , et al; Global Aesthetics Consensus Group. Global aesthetics consensus: botulinum toxin type A-evidence-based review, emerging concepts, and consensus recommendations for aesthetic use, including updates on complications. Plast Reconstr Surg 2016; 137 (03) 518e-529e
  • 38 Carruthers A, Sadick N, Brandt F. , et al. Evolution of facial aesthetic treatment over five or more years: a retrospective cross-sectional analysis of continuous onabotulinumtoxinA treatment. Dermatol Surg 2015; 41 (06) 693-701
  • 39 Dickey RM, Louis MR, Cox JA, Mohan K, Lee EI, Nigro MG. Noninvasive facial rejuvenation. Part 2: physician-directed-neuromodulators and fillers. Semin Plast Surg 2016; 30 (03) 134-142
  • 40 Kadouch JA. Calcium hydroxylapatite: A review on safety and complications. J Cosmet Dermatol 2017; 16 (02) 152-161
  • 41 Lacombe V. Sculptra: a stimulatory filler. Facial Plast Surg 2009; 25 (02) 95-99
  • 42 Levy RM, Redbord KP, Hanke CW. Treatment of HIV lipoatrophy and lipoatrophy of aging with poly-L-lactic acid: a prospective 3-year follow-up study. J Am Acad Dermatol 2008; 59 (06) 923-933
  • 43 Lupo MP. Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics. Clin Dermatol 2001; 19 (04) 467-473
  • 44 Evelson P, Ordonez CP, Llesuy S. Oxidation stress and in vivo chemiluminescence in murine skin exposed to UVA radiation. Photochem Photobiol B. Biol 1997; 28: 215-221
  • 45 Darr D, Combs S, Dunston S, Manning T, Pinnell S. Topical vitamin C protects porcine skin from ultraviolet radiation-induced damage. Br J Dermatol 1992; 127 (03) 247-253
  • 46 Gessin JC, Brown LJ, Gordon JS, Berg RA. Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts in contracted collagen gels by ascorbic acid, growth factors, and inhibitors of lipid peroxidation. Exp Cell Res 1993; 206 (02) 283-290
  • 47 Trevithick JR, Xiong H, Lee S. , et al. Topical tocopherol acetate reduces post-UVB, sunburn-associated erythema, edema, and skin sensitivity in hairless mice. Arch Biochem Biophys 1992; 296 (02) 575-582
  • 48 Thiele JJ, Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage S, Hsieh SN. Cosmeceuticals vitamins: vitamin E. In: Draelos ZD. ed. Cosmeceuticals 1st ed. Philadelphia: Elsevier Saunders; 2005: 47-54
  • 49 Stoyanovsky DA, Osipov AN, Quinn PJ, Kagan VE. Ubiquinone-dependent recycling of vitamin E radicals by superoxide. Arch Biochem Biophys 1995; 323 (02) 343-351
  • 50 Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Majewski S, Pytkowska K. Influence of polyphenols on the physiological processes in the skin. Phytother Res 2015; 29 (04) 509-517
  • 51 Nichols JA, Katiyar SK. Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms. Arch Dermatol Res 2010; 302 (02) 71-83