Analysis and dermo-cosmetic evaluation of grape seed extracts.

The current study focuses on the exploitation of grape seeds paste which is the major grape seed oil by-product, targeting on the discovery of extracts with advantageous dermo-cosmetic properties. Based on previous studies of our group [1], grape seed paste showed significant inhibition activity against tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase enzymes. Thus, it could be a potential exploitable product for cosmetic industry. The aim of this study was the production of extracts and enriched fractions with skin beneficial effects. For the extraction step two different techniques were employed. The first one, was ultrasound assisted extraction with ethanol and ethanol/water in ratio 1:1 v/v as diffusion solvents. The ethanolic extract due to its valuable chemical profile was scaled up on preparative level. Moreover, supercritical fluid extraction, with CO₂ and ethanol in percentages of 10% and 20% were employed on paste. All the extracts were analyzed with LC-HRMS to record their chemical profiles. The ultrasound-ethanolic paste extract was fractionated with centrifugal partition chromatography following the system n-Hex/EtOAc/EtOH/H₂O 1:10:3:7 v/v/v/v. The final fractions of paste extract were analyzed with HPTLC and LC-HRMS, and were evaluated concerning their inhibition activity against tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase enzymes, in order to find the most effective fractions. Additionally, the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects of selected CPC fractions was evaluated in in vitro models. Specific fractions inhibited the tumor necrosis factor (TNF-a) induced IL-6 increase of the human endothelial (EA.hy.926) and fibroblast (DLF) cell lines. Also, the same fractions reduced TNF-a induced increase of oxidative species in human monocytes (U937).

Publication History

Article published online:
13 December 2021

• References

• 1 Michailidis D. et al. Molecules 2021; 26 DOI: 10.3390/molecules26030731.