Vegetable butters and oils: scientific evidence for cosmetic and therapeutic use

Vegetable butters and oils have been used for centuries in the care and treatment of skin disorders. However, scientific evidence about their mechanisms of action and effectiveness after dermal application is still limited [1].

Vegetable butters and oils are composed of triglycerides and unsaponifiable compounds. Triglycerides are mainly responsible for a non-specific emollient effect, which results in decreased transepidermal water loss and thus improved skin hydration. The specific action includes antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidative effects, which are expressed by unsaponifiable compounds and free fatty acids derived from triglycerides. In contrast to beneficial dermal effects, lipid barrier disruption has been observed in vegetable oils with the predominant oleic acid [2], [3]. Recent evidence shows that in inflammation-affected skin, oils high in oleic acid, together with the lack of or low linoleic acid, cause additional stratum corneum damage, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids express positive effects. Non-affected skin is generally resistant to the damaging potential of oils high in oleic acid [4].

In conclusion, dermal use of vegetable butters and oils is supported by evidence, as they are affordable, easily accessible, generally linked to good skin compatibility, have fewer side effects than specific conventional treatments, and function as effective pharmaceutical ingredients in dermal treatments and as active cosmetic ingredients.

Publication History

Article published online:
12 December 2022

• References

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• 2 Vaughn AR, Clark AK, Sivamani RK, Shi VY. natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. Am J Clin Dermatol 2018; 19 (01) 103-117
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• 4 Poljšak N, Kočevar Glavač N. Vegetable butters and oils as therapeutically and cosmetically active ingredients for dermal use: A review of clinical studies. Front Pharmacol 2022; 13: 868461